Freeze frame, that’s what I would say about the Indo-Tibetan Border Police guest house at Bandrol in Kullu. And I had the honour to stay in this guest house on my maiden visit to Kullu.
Over 100 years old, the guest house was built by an Englishman named Captain RC Lee in late 1800s. Lee who is supposed to have fought with the English army in the first battle of independence in 1857, came to the serene Kullu valley and made it his abode.
With typical Victorian era architecture, the cottage is built mainly of wood. Located on the banks of river Beas and the snow-capped picturesque mountains in its backdrop, it’s simply majestic.
The guest house has got lavish woodwork and its aesthetic is heart-warming. Intricate wooden embroidery with Westminster leitmotif, the cottage exudes regal appeal to the hilt.
Ironically, Lee’s temporary resting place later also became his permanent abode as he was murdered and buried close to the temporal abode he built with so much personal care and British Raj’s largesse owed to a retired officer. Lee’s grave lies close to the guest house, staring still at the onlookers. May his soul rest in peace.
Interestingly, Captain Lee is also credited to have introduced British apples in Kullu in 1870 which later became one of the biggest revenue earners for the hilly state.
However, attendants’ account of the guest house tells another story, that Lee’s soul perhaps is not at rest. He comes almost every night and knocks at the door, walks the stairs and goes back, though without harming anybody. It seems Mr Lee was too much fascinated by his home that’s why his soul still searches!
The story of Lee’s restless aatma made me a miserable soul. But I tried to put up a brave front and never showed that I was afraid of a chance rendezvous with Mr Lee in those chilly nights in the valley of gods. That perhaps didn’t happen to me in my three days stay at the cottage. May be Lee’s soul was humane and hospitable, and kind enough not to harm guests.
After all these years he must have by now learnt the adage, as we Indians have too many of them without much in practice, Atithi Devo Bhava.
Contradicting attendants’ version, one of my friends put forth a different theory. She said that the attendants have floated this story so that the Army officers avoid staying at the guest house during the night. This serves well the attendants’ purpose, as their souls can rest in peace while fear keeps guests from gatecrashing!
After Lee’s murder the cottage was bought by the Raja of Patiala. Later it came under government control in 1974 after prolonged court battle.
It’s very strange that the cottage has not been included in the heritage list. This marvellous and rare piece of architecture needs to be protected not only for its virginal beauty and lush landscape but also for so much history behind it.
The government really needs to consider it as soon as possible, because it’s not about building, it’s about heritage.
